How to Get an Internship in Syria

Getting an internship in the States can be a drawn-out process. Prospective interners want interns' cover letters, transcripts, resumes, writing samples, interviews. All this for work in which one is usually not even paid. At a place like the UN, pretty much forget it as an undergraduate (at least I had to).

In Syria, this is a less formal process. If willing to work for free, the intern market is just about wide open. Getting an internship consists of walking into an office and saying you would like to work. UNHCR (High Commission for Refugees i.e. works with the Iraqis) is from what I hear, desperate for interns. They have an office in Kafer Sousse. You have to fight your way in past the refugees and just press your CV into someone's hands.

I decided to do something more useful for my Arabic than watching soaps, so I sent in a CV and cover letter a week ago to the UNDP (Development Program), and heard nothing. Yesterday I printed out copies of my CV, put on a nice shirt, got on a servees and asked the guy next to me if he knew where the "UN offices in West Villas Mezzeh" are. He did, so I landed in front of the UNDP, asked the guard if he knew who I could talk to about "volunteer work" (after several days of asking around, I have found no translation for internship). He took me to a woman who took my resume, told me she would forward it on. Hearing me speak Arabic to the Syrian dude next to her, she said that would be helpful. Outside again, I asked the guard if he knew where the UNFPA (population) and the UNIFEM offices were ?

Just then another dude walked up. UNIFEM? I work there! I'm the driver for the director. So we went up to the office, the director didn't even read my CV, just chatted with me for a few minutes about what I do here in Syria, if I like it, what I studied in college, and then said "Welcome!". So now I have an internship at UNIFEM, the United Nations Development Fund for Women.

Exercise!

I recently extended my visa, which is always fun. Some people complain about the bureaucracy here, but as a graduate of NYU I don't find it all that bad.

I went to the farther Office of Immigration and Passports so I could extend it for a whole two months. I woke up super early (7 on Saturday!). First, I had to get extra passport pictures, which took ages as the only shop in sight did not have a camera. Instead, they scanned my passport and printed copies of that picture. Whatever, it worked.

Then to the office. On the third floor I got four copies of the same form to fill out, then went back downstairs to buy a stamp that needs to be on each of the forms, then filled them out on the hood of a car. Then back to the third floor, a short wait, to a different office on the third floor, up to the fourth floor, back down to the third floor, back up to the fourth floor, and back down to the third floor.

See, that wasn't so hard.

I Rock the Bureaucracy

I finally registered for classes Jama'at Damasq! This may seem like a small victory, considering I'm here to take classes, but it was hard, man. I had to get a letter from my embassy saying that they have no problem with my registering at the University, the AIDS results, and go to the University, with all three of these things on opposite sides of town.

First, the embassy, which has consular open hours from 8am-10am, and a long line. Michelle from my house and I took a taxi to the embassy (I know where it is now, since I walked there and back yesterday) and were there by 20 to 8. Waited on line outside. Waited on line inside. Sat around in a big room with tons of Syrians who want to come to America. Got out by 9am, went back to Hafes al-AIDS. Michelle had yet to get the test, whereas I just needed results. I tried to push her forward (students to the front of the mass of people). Michelle only arrived one day before me. I went over to the results window, and had to wait for it open. There were Koreans, Somalis, Italians, some Syrians, and mostly Iraqis. When he found out I was American, the guy sitting next to me pretended to shoot me with his gun-finger and said "Your country did this, you know?"

"I know."

"Ah but people are different than the administration right?"

"I voted for Kerry."

That got a laugh. Another guy heard I was American and wanted to speak English to me, telling me he had wanted to continue his university studies in America but, you know, the political situation.

"Is it true that if you marry an American girl you can get citizenship?"

"Um, after some years."

"Some American girls like to marry foreigners, right?"

"Some."

"And you, you are single or married?" He was looking at my obviously empty ring finger, so I couldn't lie.

"Single, but not looking to get married."

"Really, how old are you?"

"Too young." I mean, aren't you going to at least pretend it's my eyes?

By the time I got the results, it was past 11, but I managed to find the Bab Sharqi bus to the university. 5 lira later, I was in mezza. Registration took about 5 minutes. I did it! And with a day to spare. Placement test is on Thursday - I hope I don't bomb.

Hafes Al-AIDS and more!

I have to run all around to get registered for classes at the university - I have until September 12. Yesterday, Sunday, first day of the week, I tried to find my way to Damascus University, which I was warned was a difficult journey. Zahir in my house offered to help me, but a typical American I refused. I should figure this out myself, I thought. At Bab Touma I got a taxi to Jama'at Damasq, which was the event recounted before, with the fake fiance. But he dropped me off at Jama'at Damasq the campus for sciences, not the one I need. I wandered to street with a lot of students waiting for microbuses and two women said they were going to Kuliyat al-Adab (College of Literature) in Mezze where I needed to go. So they directed me to the right micro, paid my fare despite my protests. Finally, the Mahhad for Arabic.

I have to be back in a few days with my AIDS test, passport photos, a letter from my embassy stating they have no problem with my taking classes, copies of my passport and Syrian visa, and an application form.

This morning I went to Hafes al-AIDS, which is close to Bab Touma, with the two women from SOAS (School of Oriental and Asian Studies) at London University - there's an exchange program with Damascus University. I wanted to get out early, and actually woke up before 9 (yesterday it was 12:30pm - let's blame jetlag, and last night I couldn't get to sleep til after the 4am-ish call to prayer). The girls got moving a little slowly.

It was a zoo at Hafes al-AIDS. It looks like everyone has to get AIDS tests to do anything. I was waiting with a bunch of High School kids before I found out there was a seperate entrance for student and others. With the letter from the University we skipped the massive line out front and went to the "Students and Domestic Workers Testing Room". Others insisted I sit because of how pale I was, though I tried to assure them that I really am just that pale. "Domestic Workers" was khadimaat meaning only females. Next to our testing room was one for several groups, inclduing "Entertainment Workers". Now what is that a euphanism for?